VISTA® Control Panel The high capacity, feature-rich VISTA-20P lets you deliver more value to your customers on each and every sale with up to 48 zones of protection, Internet uploading/downloading, graphic keypad support and dual partitions.
VISTA- 2. 0PDescription. VISTA® Control Panel. The high capacity, feature- rich VISTA- 2. P lets you deliver more value to your customers on each and every sale with up to. Internet uploading/downloading, graphic keypad support and dual partitions. VISTA- 2. 0P gives you the. Internet Protocol (IP), improving the speed at which information can. In addition, the VISTA- 2. P, used with an Alarm. Net® Internet or 4. G communicator. can be installed in premises without TELCO lines. The high capacity, feature-rich VISTA-20P lets you deliver more value to your customers on each and every sale with up to 48 zones of protection, Internet uploading/downloading. How program ademco vista 20p triggers - youtube, How program honeywell ademco vista 20p output trigger control garage door. ademco vista 20p clopay garage door installation instructions side note.. ADEMCO VISTA SERIES VISTA-20P / VISTA-20PSIA VISTA-15P / VISTA-15PSIA Security Systems Programming Guide K5305-1PRV5 10/04 Rev. A. TO ENTER PROGRAMMING MODE (using an alpha keypad connected to the control): A. POWER UP, then press [ ] and [#] at the same time, within 50 seconds of powering up (this method must be used if 98 was used to exit program mode). OR B. The panel’s installation advantages, innovative end- user benefits and robust. VISTA- 2. 0P an ideal choice for higher end installations. Ademco 2. 0P alarm systems for the do- it- yourself homeownerby David Zatz. In 2. 00. 9, I bought an alarm system to connect the smoke alarms in my circa- 1. We had smoke alarms in nearly every room, but I could not hear the one in the basement from the second floor. Also, our town was having roughly one break- in per week, and while I don't have any valuable valuables, as such, it’s a pain to replace stuff. I am not a professional installer. None of the advice or information in this page should be taken as being professional level advice. I might be wrong about particular things, or outdated; this is especially true regarding alert services and the dialers. You must proceed at your own risk from here. Ademco Vista alarm systems as DIY projects. I quickly discovered that there are few good sources of information on alarms. There are forums, like diyalarmforum. I recommend, but it’s nearly impossible to find a comparative review that fits your needs. Eventually, I went with one of the industry- standard alarms — the Honeywell Ademco Vista 2. P (the Vista 1. 0P and 1. P are similar, but I chose the 2. P because it seemed more expandable and had lots and lots of zones — this was overkill but they’re all roughly similar in price). Ademco’s basic design is ancient, though updated somewhat over the years, with many (expensive) upgrades possible. I would probably select a DSC system if I was doing it again, because they are “supposed” to be easier to work with, and the accessories are much cheaper. There are also some choices they provide which Ademco oddly does not. There are few DIY oriented alarms; my father had, 2. Sears system, with a separate siren (including a backup power supply), but there was nothing comparable on the market today. I got quotes from three installers and got prices of $2,2. ADT and Brinks, with three years of monitoring at over $3. This was a lot for the system I was looking at — three smoke alarms, two doors, and one motion sensor. It might make sense to invite in someone like Brinks, have them do the hard work, use their service for the contractual three years (total: around $3. There are ways to get the installer code so you can control the hardware, then switch to a cheaper monitoring service. A professional installer may be a better option in areas with lower labor costs. Major chains use modified versions of the Vista 2. P I purchased, and there are numerous questions on the forums about converting old systems from Brinks or ADT or whomever. It is expensive (in accessories and sensors, not the basic unit) and hard to play with. You won't get support from Honeywell Ademco unless you are a professional and even they don't seem to get much help. Lessons learned: Buying the Honeywell Ademco 2. P system and parts. I got the basic kit from Vanguard Security, but today, I would go with another, cheaper vendor. You can buy stuff cheaply on e. Bay, but it's often just as cheap to go through an established store with strong customer support and fewer jerks who will leave out key parts, or sell obviously used- and- abused parts as “new” or “refurbished.” You don't need to buy accessories from the same place. Many vendors sell "Honeywell Ademco System Sensor" products. This means a product made by System Sensor and is compatible with your Ademco system (with smoke alarms, only if you buy an adapter which costs double what the sensor itself cost). System Sensor seems to be a good brand, but make sure it will work with your system if it's wired. The wireless ones seem to work fine. I ended up buying GE two- wire smoke alarms and System Sensor wireless alarms, which work perfectly with the Ademco system; Ademco itself does not have one that works with the 2. P. GE items do not seem to be reliable, and they are now sold by United Technologies as Interlogix unit. UT does not support them unless you have an account with them. On reflection, I recommend spending more for the System Sensor or Ademco units. The cost of kits varies. For $3. 40, you can get a nicely outfitted kit with a 2. P control panel and box; 6. Then all you need is wire (Lowe’s and others sell it in bulk) and sensors. Another kit, for $2. You will need a 6. RF keypad if you use the Ademco system. The 6. 16. 0RF includes a radio relay. Nu. Tech’s ADB2. USB is a USB adapter for the Ademco box. It probably doesn't suit your needs unless you're a real technogeek who wants to spend more time using a computer to do stuff that can be done more quickly through the box, or you want to have a computer dedicated full time to watching the system. It's also handy if you want to use the system for home automation. I gave up on this unit. I suggest you get a waterproof strobe for outside, possibly a strobe/siren. These are inexpensive and tell people exactly which house is in trouble, versus sirens, where they have to guess. Generally these must be wired, with two wires. You will also need a teeny slot screwdriver and a larger slot screwdriver. At some point you may overload your power supply and backup battery, so be prepared to add a bigger backup battery (don't get a “cheap at all costs” one) and auxiliary power supply. The wireless stuff doesn’t add that kind of burden; but the wired stuff, including the oft- forgotten sirens and strobes, does! I really wish that I could call in an installer and pay an hourly rate to program some of the more complex aspects of the system, but they don't do that. The keypads. You need a 6. My kit came with a 6. RF (that has its own transmitter); it can't really be used for programming, and it doesn't give full text readouts. Graphical keypads aren't good for programming the system either, according to forum chatter from the pros. The 6. 16. 0 is considerably more expensive than the 6. I would get this for a secondary keypad, too — it has a full text readout, and then you'll have a spare if the first one fails. If you want to use wireless gizmos, get one 6. RF alongside or instead of the plain 6. I shut off the radio in the 6. RF.) The range is quite good. I have a third keypad, wireless, for a room that's far from the other keypads. This turned out to be easy to install, but it's useless unless you also buy the power adapter at an absurd $2. It's expensive at $8. Programming and setup. You will need four- conductor wire for the keypads and two- conductor wire for smoke alarms, sirens, and any hard- wired sensors. Ademco recommends 1. Some wire (like the roll I got at Sears) breaks easily, which will cause problems in the future. Calculate your needs and order or buy early — and get a sample in your hand to make sure it's easy to work with and not easily breakable. Speaker wire is almost certainly going to be too thick to use with the keypads but should be fine, if expensive, with the sensors. Try to get wire in the right colors to make installation easy. All the strands should be marked somehow. Do all the wiring before hooking up the power and battery, if you can. Wire in the keypads. Remember, you can't use the system without at least one 6. Zones vs Loops: a zone is either two terminals on the alarm board, or a wireless memory spot. Each device may also come with “loops,” which are basically separate functions — e. Some devices have only a single loop (basic glassbreaks and window/door sensors); some have two, of which you will probably use one (e. Smoke alarms usually have one for smoke/fire, one for maintenance, one for freeze- detection. Most sensors have a tamper switch (Ademco seems to have these on loop 4 regardless) which you can program in if you want to know when someone takes the cover off a sensor. Wireless devices have different programming tricks. In essence, you figure out from the instructions which loop and zone to use; then you go into programming mode (4. I strongly suggest you do last, and write it down in at least two places), *5. Some need to set up on two or three zones, e. This is where “loops” come in — a loop is a subdivision within a zone. You need to go through the whole process for each loop you put in, again, each new loop programmed in goes into its own new zone. If you want each window to be on its own zone and have a big house with lots of smoke alarms, you will need to worry about the number of zones up front! You get to a point where you're supposed to get the device to enter its own serial number. I suggest you do not give in to temptation and do everything at the box, which is easier, because if you do this for each device at the place it will be installed, any devices that are too far away or blocked for whatever reason will not be registered, and you'll know there's a problem. Also, there are sometimes problems if you do this too close to the box. Big thanks to Airdorn, mjohnson, Alarmtech, and DEL Installations of diyalarmforum. For smoke alarms, you open and close them, which sets off the tamper sensor; then you have to enter the loop from the box (it will show up as 4, the tamper sensor's address, but you will want to program in loop 1 at the least). For other alarms, install them, make sure the covers are fully closed (this one threw me for a "loop,") then set them off and restore them, e. Open it pretty wide, because the sensors can have a fairly wide range of allowed motion.) You do not press the tamper buttons on the burglar alarms to enter the code. Guess how I know that? You only use one zone, zone 1, for two- wire smoke/fire detectors. You can use other zones if you get four- wire detectors, but then you need to get a relay as well. The Ademco Vista 2. P can phone out, and you can buy a wireless adapter, both are only for monitoring services; it won’t notify your cellphone, for example. There is a $1. 0/month monitoring service available from Safemart and a $9/month monitoring service from Alarm. System. Store. They are $2. You might just want to get monitoring a few months after you get the alarm, when you know you won't be setting it off by accident very often.
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